This site is created to bring common modifications and corrections to existing problems for the 1998-2003 Suzuki TL1000R. Concepts,
Research, and Designs created by the members of www.TLPlanet.com and www.TLZone.net

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

$6 Airbox heat shield


Some companies will charge $150 and up for this "miracle mod" and claim to increase power by 4hp.  Whether you believe this or not, it is based on a sound evidence.  The theory behind this mod is by adding a reflective insulation covering you will lower the temperature inside the air box;.  This works on the premise of reflecting radiant heat. You'll also see the same theory being used in your house around the hot water heater.

The cheap and easy way to do this yourself is to go to the hardware store and pickup some reflective insulation tape.

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

The Joe V Airbox Mod second step.

If you have no completed the Airbox mod, do so now!  It removes the flapper valves and frees up more room in the airbox, and gives better flow.
http://www.carlsalter.com/tlrairboxmod.html

For part two, you'll be removing all the extra vacuum lines and the vacuum control solenoid valve. The lines marked in red will be removed. Remember to cap the vacuum port at the throttle body!

Thursday, September 2, 2010

Coil UPGRADE

A cheap and simple upgrade for the TL1000R is to swap the coils to the factory SV1000S coil packs.  They have a lower resistance and create a bigger spark, the have a better build quality and are lighter.  The only draw is the are shorter and will only mount on one side without the use of an adapter.

JarkkoT's "+" Mod

This modification is to add higher voltage to the coils. 

Radiator Temperature Fan Switch UPGRADE

The factory radiator temperature switch will turn the fans on between 220-225F.  A simple upgrade to have the fans turn on a 199F and back off at 190F is to swap to a WELLS Model SW1888 temperature switch.

Auxiliary Fan Switch

A common problem with the TL1000R is the heat.  The cheapest solution to this problem is to install a switch to allow you to turn on the fan before 220 degrees F.  The factory temperature switch is located on the bottom radiator on the right side.



Here is a common location for mounting the switch
Right handlebar, above the starter switch

Battery and Regulator/Rectifier UPGRADE

For a cooler running R/R that puts out more volts use the Yamaha R1 FH012AA R/R
*Be sure to use a 30amp inline fuse
Plug connectors can be found here: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html


For a light weight, higher output battery use an Odyssey PC310
310 cranking amps for first 5 seconds, Weighs 5.9 lbs
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc310.htm

Charging Mod

The TL1000R is noted for having a weak charging system.  This will add 1 extra volt for charging the battery and should eliminate any light dimming noticed during acceleration.  Original concept by Zippy.

Zippy's Original Charging Mod

Alternate Charging Mod

Headlight Mod

Newer motorcycles come standard with feature like this.  The TLR is known for having problems turning over due to weak current.  Here are different methods for having the headlight turn off when starting. Original concept by D'Ecosse.

Do It Yourself ATRE

Why spend $60 on a switchable Automatic Timing Retard Eliminator
The TL1000R uses a different ignition map for each gear.  In the lower gears, the ignition timing is retarded.  This unit eliminates the retardation and enables a more responsive throttle and faster acceleration in the lower gears.  Original concept by Steve TLS.